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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. However, nestled prominently among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has left the owners completely surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks a family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest restaurant earning such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.